Out of uniform Maiko
For about $30 you too can experience a small taste of the enigmatic and mysterious world of the Maiko. Those beautiful doll-like people bedecked in old-style kimono, traditional hairstyle and pure white makeup. Those women who duck in and out of exclusive restaurants on the arms of older Japanese businessmen, bells tinkling as they move. Catching brief glimpses as they work is one thing but watching them perform as a group is another thing altogether.
During the month of October the three main schools of Maiko in Kyoto each hold a performance at their respective playhouses, one show a day for only four days. It is a chance to peer into a world normally reserved for ‘members’ only, where even wallets stuffed with money can’t buy you entry unless you know the right person.
Somehow I managed to catch wind of these performances; I believe a website that I stumbled upon a while back (see links on left side of page). It conveniently listed the dates, locations and contact information so with the help of my girlfriend we found out the exact time and costs. Tickets start cheap at $30 for the rafters but quickly leap up to $150+ for floor seats.
If it weren’t for that website I would have had no idea the dances were happening. As it were when we finally sat down in our seats out of the 200 or so in the crowd the number of tourists could be counted on one hand. The main body on the first floor was a collection of well dressed middle to older aged men either escorted or joined at their seats by ‘off duty’ Maiko (not in makeup but still in dress). There were also small groups of older women who seemed to be well known by everyone.
The performance itself is quite hard to describe. Each of the dances had a complicated back story conveniently written out (in Japanese) in our event guide. Even with the explanation something was missing. I felt kind of at a loss, having come into this event with no preparation, as to what I should be looking for or what should be appreciated.
The dances were remarkable. Each Maiko moved around the stage fluidly switching from one pose to another in carefully choreographed synchrony. Their white painted faces highlighted with brilliant red and midnight black were held in mask-like passivity but somehow still reflected the rainbow of emotion.
At a few points I must admit that I dozed off, but just for a moment (I am sure I was not alone either). The constant beat of the drums, the light sound of the flutes, and the thrum of the shamisen all combined with the hypnotic (and sometimes very long) dance to lull me to sleep. I fought bravely and in the end won.
There were 5 stories in all, climaxing with an energetic piece where fifteen or sixteen gaily decked Maiko danced to a lively beat. Then it was all over. An hour and a half had passed in the blink of an eye but I had finally been able to see, if only for short time, a world hidden behind the closed doors of ancient buildings and it had cost me almost nothing.
It would have passed me by without a whisper had I not been looking for it (or rather anything). How much goes on where you live that you have no idea about? My suggestion is take some time to visit a community center, look up websites about your city, anything that might lead to something you had no idea about. That is, unless you are satisfied with things as they are.
Only in Japan.
